If you want to get big power out of a Honda VTEC motor — if you want to be the real-life embodiment of “VTEC just kicked in, yo”, check out the video below.
That’s because this video will show you how to get lots of power out of the famous VTEC. With discounts on parts available at the YouTube link.
Honda and Acura performance vehicles with VTEC have a reputation for being rev-happy — sometimes you need to make them sing to feel the zing. Well, now, you can take a different approach.
Speed Academy is a website and YouTube channel based on making things go fast and enjoying cars. Peter Tarach and Dave Pratte are the forces behind Speed Academy.
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See below for a transcript provided via AI and edited by a staffer.
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Transcript:
When we opened it up, we noticed a lot of wear. Apparently, you can adapt them to V-series motors. This is our first time trying it on a motor that’s going into a track car, so I’m trying not to obsess over the details.
Welcome back to my dream engine build, where we’re assembling this B20 VTEC engine. I’m checking end play on the crankshaft, which is the last check on the short block before we continue assembly. There’s a gauge on the end of the crank, and we’re checking lateral movement. The factory service manual calls for between 0.1mm and 0.35mm. We’re right in the middle at 0.17mm, so we’re good.
Before we move on, shoutout to HP Academy for sponsoring this build. We’re using their engine building courses, which have been very helpful. The Honda factory service manual specifies tools like micrometers and bore gauges, which not everyone owns or knows how to use. That’s where HP Academy comes in — they teach tool selection, proper use, and how to follow the manual with confidence.
Next, we’re installing the oil pump. We’re using the OE B20 oil pump, which we had blasted clean. However, we noticed significant wear on the gear surfaces. That led us to the ACL high-performance oil pump, designed for high-RPM use, unlike the stock B20 unit.
We used Honda Bond to seal the mating surface. I like spreading it out by hand to avoid applying it too thin or too thick. You want to see a little squeeze-out when you torque it down. Afterward, we installed fresh washers on the galley plugs and torqued everything to spec before installing the windage tray and oil pickup tube using new seals from the ACL pump kit.
Next was the rear main seal, cleaned and prepped by JP at Stripping Tech. I pressed in a new seal by hand, which was a bit concerning since they usually require a tool. We’ll see if it holds. Let me know in the comments if you think I made the wrong call.
No oil pan yet, because we’re pulling the baffled pan off the Type R motor later. For now, we’re installing ARP head studs. These just go in hand-tight — no lube, sealant, or Loctite. We’re also using a Cometic multi-layered head gasket per Lavine Motorsports’ build recipe. Thankfully, it’s labeled “UP,” so there’s no confusion.
I’ve set cylinder one slightly past top dead center, as recommended by HP Academy, to avoid clearance issues during cam install. Then we applied ARP lube to the threads, washers, and nuts. Torqueing was done in three steps — 27.5 ft-lb, 55 ft-lb, and 80 ft-lb — per ARP specs. We also used block dowels to adapt the non-VTEC block to the VTEC head.
For cams, we’re using Skunk2 Pro Series Stage 2 units. These were recommended by Eric Lavine as part of his “Super B20” recipe. He expects over 250 whp on pump gas. The cam holder plates were installed, and before putting on the gears, we had to fit a rear cover. I thought I had a VTEC cover, but it turned out I didn’t.
We pulled the engine from the Type R to get the necessary covers and VTEC-specific components. Luke from Clean Street also donated a full GSR cover kit. Thanks, Luke. With everything gathered, we reinstalled the water pump, tensioner, crank pulley, and other small parts.
We’re using Toda cam gears and a red Toda timing belt from Garage16. A 10% discount code is in the video description. Pete noticed the belt was rubbing against the back cover, likely due to the VTEC cover on a non-VTEC block. We removed and trimmed it for clearance.
After resolving that, we rotated the engine 4–6 revolutions to set belt tension. On our first try, the belt skipped a tooth — common on B-series. After re-tensioning, it held correctly.
We installed the Type R’s Moroso baffled oil pan, which increases capacity by about a liter. Then we adjusted valve lash — 0.007″ intake, 0.008″ exhaust per Skunk2’s spec — ensuring clearance for thermal expansion.
We also installed a DigiDizzy kit for coil-on-plug conversion. This replaces the unreliable OEM distributor and wires with a modern, plug-and-play setup. The ECU still thinks it’s a regular distributor.
We used a Fluidampr crank pulley because OEM units are discontinued, and this one handles harmonics across the RPM range thanks to its viscous fluid chamber. It’s a superior damper, especially since we’ve changed a lot internally.
Because we’re going from a non-VTEC block to a VTEC head, we needed to supply oil to the VTEC solenoid. The Block Racing B20 VTEC kit includes a sandwich adapter, fittings, and braided line for this.
We installed an OE+ Pro Series oil filter, which is more than adequate for our needs. For the intake, we’re running a Skunk2 Pro Series manifold for the GSR head. It’s a Type R-style manifold built for top-end power. We matched it with a 74mm Skunk2 Pro Series throttle body, also part of the Lavine Motorsports recipe.
More updates to come as we continue this build.
